Vogue Runway's coverage of Celine's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection marked a pivotal moment in the brand's history. It was a deliberate and dramatic shift, a conscious departure from the minimalist, intellectual aesthetic cultivated under Phoebe Philo and a return – or perhaps a reinterpretation – of a more overtly glamorous and traditionally luxurious Celine. This was old, old Celine—exactly the kind of politely classy merchandise originally sold under the label before LVMH acquired it, long before even Phoebe Philo’s predecessor. Hedi Slimane, the newly appointed creative director, presented a collection that sparked fervent debate, dividing critics and consumers alike. Was it a betrayal of the brand's recent identity, or a necessary reclamation of its heritage? This retrospective will delve into the details of the AW19 show, focusing specifically on the dresses presented, examining both the women's and, intriguingly, the men's collections, and analyzing their place within the broader context of Slimane's vision for Celine.
Celine Runway Dresses: A Symphony of Silhouettes and Fabrics
The Celine AW19 runway was a showcase of Slimane's signature style: lean silhouettes, a focus on sharp tailoring, and a distinct rock-and-roll edge. Gone were the languid, oversized shapes that defined Philo's era. Instead, Slimane opted for a more youthful, almost rebellious aesthetic. The dresses, central to the collection, reflected this shift dramatically. They were predominantly short, often mini-length, emphasizing the legs and showcasing a youthful energy. This was a stark contrast to the often floor-length, fluid garments that characterized Philo's Celine.
Several key elements defined the Celine AW19 runway dresses. Firstly, the emphasis on black. Black, in various textures and weights, formed the backbone of the collection. It was used in sleek, structured crepe dresses, in delicate lace, and in luxurious velvet. The black dresses were often embellished with subtle details: delicate beading, strategically placed sequins, or a simple, yet impactful, cut-out detail. These embellishments never overwhelmed the overall minimalist aesthetic, instead adding a touch of understated glamour.
Secondly, the collection featured a strong emphasis on specific silhouettes. The classic shift dress, reimagined in modern fabrics and with contemporary detailing, was a recurring theme. These dresses were often cinched at the waist, highlighting the feminine form, but maintaining a slender, almost boyish silhouette. The A-line dress also made an appearance, often in a slightly shorter length, adding to the youthful energy of the collection. This was balanced by the inclusion of more form-fitting dresses, particularly those crafted from velvet or other richly textured fabrics. These hugged the body, creating a more sensual and sophisticated look.
The fabrics themselves played a significant role in defining the overall aesthetic. While black dominated, the collection also incorporated other colors, albeit sparingly. These were often rich, deep tones – burgundy, emerald green, sapphire blue – adding depth and visual interest to the otherwise predominantly monochrome palette. The fabrics themselves ranged from lightweight silks and chiffons to heavier velvets, brocades, and even leather. This variety allowed for a nuanced exploration of texture and added layers of complexity to the seemingly simple designs. The use of leather, in particular, lent a rebellious edge to certain dresses, echoing Slimane's rock-inspired aesthetic.
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